Ultra Easy Scrap Quilt Tutorial

Sewing Projects | 7.5.2013 | 3 Comments


Don’t know what to do with those extra scraps of fabric? Why not use them to make this Ultra Easy Scrap Quilt?



What You’ll Need


  • 25 squares of fabric, each 8 ½” X 8 ½”
  • Thread
  • 1 piece of 45”X45” batting
  • 1 piece of 42” X 42” quilting fabric for the backing
  • An iron
  • Quilting pins
  • A sewing machine



Preparing Your Squares


The first step to making this easy scrap quilt is cutting your scraps into squares that are the proper size.


For your first scrap quilt, I suggest using 8 ½” squares. For a 40” X 40” quilt, you will only need 25 squares. The quilt will have 5 squares going across and 5 squares going down.


If you use 5 ½” squares, you’ll need 64 squares (8 squares across and 8 squares down).


If you use 4 ½” squares, you’ll need 100 squares in all (10 squares across and 10 squares down).



Lay Out Your Squares


Arrange your squares on a flat surface. You should have 5 rows of square, and each row should have 5 squares.


The beauty of this scrap quilt is that you don’t have to worry about the pattern. If every one of your 25 squares is a different fabric, that’s perfectly fine. Such “patchwork” quilts have an old world charm that’s hard to resist.


However, you can certainly try arranging your squares into some kind of a pattern. Just start sliding the squares around until you hit on an arrangement that you find visually appealing.



Making Your First Row


  1. Take the first square from the first vertical row and lay it on a table, right side up.
  2. Take the square that was beneath the first square in that row and turn it right side down. Place it on top of the first square. Pin the squares together.
  3. Sew the squares together, using a ¼” seam allowance.
  4. Lay out your pieced squares so they are right side up.
  5. Take the third square from the row and turn it right side down. Lay it on top of the second square, and pin the fabric together.
  6. Sew the fabric together, using a ¼” seam allowance.
  7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 with the fourth and fifth squares.



Repeat the above process with the other four vertical rows.


Sewing the Rows Together


  1. Lay the first pieced row right side up.
  2. Take the second pieced row and turn it right side down. Lay it on top of the first row.
  3. Pin the sides of the fabric together.
  4. Sew the rows together on one side, leaving a ¼” seam allowance.
  5. Lay out the pieced rows so they are right side up.
  6. Take the third pieced row and turn it right side down. Lay it on top of the second row.
  7. Pin the sides of the fabric together.
  8. Sew the rows together on one side, leaving a ¼” seam allowance.



Just repeat this whole process with the fourth and fifth pieced rows. When you’re done, your quilt top will be finished.



Press the Seams Open


Turn your quilt top right side down. Using your iron, press the seams open, so that the fabric is lying flat to either side of the seams.




Right now, your quilt top is 40 ½” X 40 ½”. To make it 40” X 40”, trim ¼” from all four sides. This will also ensure your quilt is squared up on all four sides.



Putting It All Together


  1. Trim the backing fabric so that it’s 42” X 42”. Lay it on a flat surface, right side down.
  2. Trim the batting so that it’s 40” X 40”. Lay the batting on top of the backing fabric. Try to center the batting so that about an inch of the backing fabric is showing on all four sides.
  3. Turn your quilt top right side up, and lay it on top of the batting.
  4. Pin the three pieces together. Place pins around the four sides, and also along the seams. Use as many pins as you need to; you don’t want any of the pieces moving while you sew.
  5. Starting at the bottom of the quilt top, quilt a straight line about ¼” to the left of the first seam. Do not go past the top of the quilt top. Quilt another straight line about ¼” to the right of the seam.
  6. Repeat step 5 on all of the seams, both vertical and horizontal.
  7. Remove the pins.



The Binding


  1. At the top of the quilt, fold the backing fabric in half, so that it lines up with the top of the quilt top and batting. Press the fold flat with the iron.
  2. Fold the backing over the top of the quilt and pin it in place.
  3. Sew the binding down, getting as close to the edge as possible.
  4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 on the other three sides.



This Ultra Easy Scrap Quilt is the perfect way to use up leftover fabric scraps. And you’ll love snuggling under it while watching TV on chilly winter nights.

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  1. Joann says:

    Thank you for the tutorial. The photo of the quilt shows a frame or border around each square. Would you explain how to do that?

  2. Gail says:

    Looks like no one is answering your question about what is called sashing. Basically, these are strips of fabric that are sewn on all side of the block. Depending on the size of each block, whether you want the same color of sashing on all sides of the block, you will need extra fabric for the sashing. Sashing can be any width that you want, but I would recommend that you use the same fabric for all sashing as this unifies the quilt. Cut strips WOF (width of fabric — usually you can get 42 inches of sashing from a strip of fabric) to whatever width you decide to make, allowing 1/2 inch for seam allowances — 1//4 inch for each side of the sashing). Cut 2 strips to fit the sides of one block. (For an example, say your quilt block that you cut was 8 inches, then you will need 2 strips of fabric that are 8 inches long.) Stitch each strip on each side of the block. Then you will need strips of fabric for the top and bottom. The length of these strips should be 8 inches plus the width of the strip of fabric that you used on the sides — you can lay the block on top of the fabric strip to measure. However, you must be sure that all strips and blocks are measured accurately, or your quilt will not have uniform sashing — and as a result each of the blocks with the sashing may be different sizes. That is probably the reason that the author of the original instructions did not discuss sashing. The quilt is no longer really easy — too much room for error when cutting and sewing sashing. Also, please note when sewing any seams for a quilt, the standard width for sewing is a scant 1/4 inch (meaning just under 1/4 inch). Again, for accuracy reasons, this stitching needs to measure the same for all blocks (and sashing) to ensure that all blocks are the same size.
    Sorry this was such a long answer to your question, but I cannot stress the measuring and sewing accuracy enough. If this is your first quilt, do your best. As you do more and more quilting, your accuracy will improve.
    Finally, the quilting discussed in the instructions is a little close for the quilting that I do. If I am reading it correctly, it says quilt every 1/4 of an inch. (Quilt another straight line about ¼” to the right of the seam.) My suggestion, depending on the quilt batting) is to quilt “in the ditch” which says you quilt along the seam line. This will work fine if your blocks are 4 or 5 inches square. However, most batting has instructions about how close your quilting should be, so for the 8 inch square, you may need to quilt another row through the middle (some batting instructions say every 4 or 5 inches.)
    There are many ways to quilt. Pick up a quilt magazine or book for other ideas. And if you are quilting the length of your quilt, quilt in one direction, then turn your quilt so that you quilt back in the reverse direction. This will keep your quilt square and even. Good luck!

  3. martinalma2 says:


    I currently own an Elna Electronic Carina sewing machine, serial number 2696890-828 Model number 66. I had my machine at a retreat session not too long ago, but failed to come home with the power control. I am writing to find out if you would have another cord that I could purchase from you as a backup and inquire about the cost of this piece to replace The foot control is not electronic but is an air foot control. It controls, by air pressure an electronic device housed within the machine for regulating motor and sewing machines; it can thus be termed combined air electronic operation One connects the nozzle with the machine and it can be air electronic operation. I would really appreciate obtaining a replacement for my missing cord. Thank you very much for your time and service,


    Alma Martin
    14 Marshall Court Ingersoll, Ontario
    N5C3Z8, Canada

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